Bonsai Gardening Secrets

About basic bonsai tools

2006-09-27T04:17:00.000+02:00

About basic bonsai tools

First let me start by stating a difference in japanese bonsai tools and chinese bonsai tools. Chinese tools are more cost affordable but often built of lesser quality. Japanese tools cost more, and often comes in various grade. You usually find novice, intermediate, Professionnal. All graded at different price from lowest to highest. Then, you have the stainless steel tools, wich are the summum. They are often professionnal grade but rust-proof.

As a beginner, If you want to try bonsai, you can start with chinese tool, since they dont cost alot, but once you will have used chinese tools, and if you get to try a japanese pair of tools, even the novice one, you'll notice the quality difference and will want to only use japanese tools. So, novice japanese tools are ok for a beginner ? You bet. Once you'll get more serious about bonsai, you can start to upgrade your bonsai tool kit.

As for wich tool you should use, the first tool often considered and recommended is the concave cutter.

Google image of concave cutters

Concave cutter are use to cut branches of small to somewhat large size. They comme in various for and shape.

But what about just trimming a newly acquired bonsai ? Well then a nice pair of long neck shears are in order.They are called satsuki shears.

Google Long neck shears

Or you could use a small leaf trimmer just like those :

Google Bonsai leaf trimmer

Those are about the basic tools for bonsai. Each bonsai tools regularly comes in various size. Size usually vary from 5-11 inches, but the most common are 8 inch tools. Since they are mass produce, they usually are cheaper to buy then smaller and larger size.

Hope this has been a small usefull introduction to bonsai tools.

Regards,

Patrick from Misho Bonsai seeds

Avid full time hobby bonsai grower. As been practicing bonsai and gardening for more then 8 years. Owner of http://www.mishobonsai.com, a website with ressource for Bonsai seeds and tree seeds.

About the origins of bonsai

2006-09-27T04:15:00.000+02:00

About the origins of bonsai

Miniature trees are originally rooted in the mountains of China, where only a specific species of plants and trees grow. Because of its hostile weather conditions, the trees were often stunted and contorted. The strong mountain winds also left these trees twisted in ice and the cold. Essentially, it is nature that has rendered the inspiration for the art of potting trees as students of the art do their best to mimic what nature has created. By "training" trees through specialized means of pruning and shaping them to a desired height and structure, these students of the art were able to recreate the sample nature has provided.

Bonsai, a Japanese term for "miniature potted trees", actually originated from the Chinese. Called "pensai" in China, these miniature trees first appeared in artworks and poems in this Asian country in 200 B.C. Early own, the mini-tree, or rather, the work of art, has already become a symbol of harmony and tranquility. Chinese Monks and the nobles or upper class, who appreciated the beauty and significance of plants and trees or nature in general, cultivated mini-landscapes of mountains, rivers and little tree houses placed on big plates. Sometime in the 15th or 16th century, this artistic hobby grew among the people of Southeast China. Many of them have become master designers and experts of the art of tree potting. What was known first known as a hobby of Chinese artists, monks and nobles in those days became a significant part of modern day Japanese tradition.

How this came to Japan was made possible through the officials of the Japanese government, who often come to China at the height of the Tang Dynasty and have brought the art back home. During the Kamakura period, while Zen Buddhism was introduced in Japan, these Zen masters also introduced the hobby of tree potting to its people. As a result, it became widely popular among the wealthy class (daimyos or feudal lords), the merchants and even the Samurais. In addition to this, daimyos even sought pottery masters on their employ, to make one of kind pots for their miniature plants.

Initially popular among the Japanese priests, the ruling class and those on the upper hierarchy, Bonsai eventually reached popularity with the middle class. As Japanese culture and their way of living dictates it, where the Japanese have always believed in keeping a harmonious relationship with their surroundings as beneficial, miniature gardening became one of Japan's favorite pastimes. The fact that these potted trees took up just a small space inside the house was also compatible with how the Japanese lived. It was during these times too, that the word "bonsai" was coined.

Today, the art of Bonsai is still practiced in China. It is characteristically different from the Japanese versions as they are somewhat bigger than the popular Japanese Bonsai. And while thinking of potted trees, one easily attributes this to Japan, the hobby/art form appeals not only to the people of the East today, but students and enthusiasts all over the world have also become devotees to the art of tree potting.

Patrick From Mishobonsai seeds

Bonsai Care - Use Of Fertilizer

2006-09-24T02:20:00.000+02:00

Bonsai Care - Use Of Fertilizer

The survival of a Bonsai Plants depends on several factors. To list a few:

* Watering is an important function and the technique of watering is equally important.

* Light and Humidity are essential for a healthy growth.

* Fertilizer is another important product needed for creating a healthy bonsai plant.

* Soil, Pruning, Temperature and Re-potting are equally an important concern in the growth of a bonsai plant.

In this article we will look into the need for fertilizer, which is plant food. Like all plants, bonsai plants need fertilizer to grow into a healthy plant. The natural foods are water, carbon dioxide and sunlight. Plants convert them to carbohydrate and sugar, which is a form of food to plants.

Fertilizer is another type of plant food that provides the bonsai with needed minerals and vitamins. For instance, to assist with cell division and enzyme processes, the fertilizer offers three important things - nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium.

Let us look how Nitrogen helps in the growth of our Bonsai Plant.

The nitrogen in the fertilizer gives the Bonsai Plant its beautiful green colour, as well as the elongation of the leaves. It helps in the growth of the Bonsai Plant. Nitrogen also affects internodes growth and is required for protein manufacturing. Phosphorous is also used for cell division but in addition, this element is needed for RNA, DNA, and fatty substances, making the leaves a dark green colour. However, phosphorous is an important element for flowering bonsai and development of the root growth. For the development of cell enzymes and healthy cell activity in the Bonsai Plants, Potassium comes into play.

Fertilizer is absorbed through the roots through a process known as osmosis, which means the solution being moved is less concentrated. The result is fertilizer and water being able to move great distances through the plant. Keep in mind that fertilizer can also be absorbed through the plant's foliage although the main absorption is through the roots.

It is highly recommended that you use a liquid form of fertilizer, as it will be easier on the bonsai plants, furthermore it gives more direct results. It is highly recommended you follow the instruction given. A word of caution, if you choose to fertilizer frequently it would be advantages to dilute the solution so as to reduce the salt contents.

As we realise that are three types of important items that are required by a Bonsai Plants. They are, 1) Nitrogen 2) Phosphorous and 3) Potassium. So whenever we purchase a fertiliser we must ensure that these three chemicals are present in the fertiliser. Check it out from the label.

Darma have years of planting and nuturing bonsai, is sharing his experience and he also likes to share the wisdom of another bonsai lover. Must check it out http://bonsai-plants.blogspot.com

About the importance of seeds in Bonsai

2006-09-24T02:17:00.000+02:00

About the importance of seeds in Bonsai

My journey into bonsai as started by a seed, much like the life of a tree. At first, I had the idea, that "Bonsai seeds" were seeds especially for bonsai and that a Bonsai tree would grow from it. I was wrong, but not by much. The seeds were indeed going to germinate a tree, but not necessarily a bonsai. Bonsai would be obtained through growing techniques.

In fact, there is no such thing as Bonsai seeds, but only tree seeds. At most, you can buy seeds of species of tree prefered by bonsai enthusiast for their growing characteristics, such as, small leaves, suitability to growing technique, fast growth etc... but no "bonsai seeds".

The first thing you hear about seeds in the bonsai world, is that it take too much time to get something that resemble a bonsai out of a seed. I must admit, that you can obtain a more instant gratification from other methods, such as styling an already grown tree bought from your local nursery, buy an already trained tree, or use a propagation method such as cuttings or air layer. I dont diminish any of these methods, as they offer valuable lessons at different stage of your bonsai adventure, but this is not the object of this text. I will rather entertain you on the advantage of seeds and their uses in bonsai.

Plants are classified by scientist in many categories and between them there is a hierarchy. For example, the first category for a tree is Kingdom and the name of the kingdom is "Plant". Then the "Plant" kingdom is divided in subkingdom. The subkingdom, wich is "Vascular plants" for tree's, is then divided in multiple categories. The Vascular plants category offer different option, but the one who interest us is the "Spermatophyta" wich is the "Seed plants" group. Now every kind of tree is classified till we reach the 9th order of the hierarchy wich is the "Genus" of the plants. Genus refer to the name of the tree. For instance, a maple is Acer, and birch is betula. Then the 10th order is the "species". So for a japanese maple, it would be Palmatum, hence Acer Palmatum if we combine the 9th and 10th order. But it doesnt stop there, there is also an 11th order, wich is refered to as the cultivar. Cultivar is a tree of the 10th order, but with specific characteristics and only this tree as those genetics characteristics. So if we continue our example, Acer Palmatum 'Deshojo' , would be a japanese maple of the Deshojo cultivar. When you buy a tree define with these three last order of the classification, you are more likely buying a tree grown from a cutting or an air layer. The reason for this is simple, seeds can't reproduce the exact same characteristics each time because the pollen fertilising the parent plant is unknown. The seeds only reproduce the approximate characteristics of the 10th order, the "species" one, but even with this, you have variations.

But this doesnt discard seeds as a mean of propagating, it brings a positive side to it. Everytime you germinate a seed, you are discovering a new cultivar with specific characteristics. How fun can that be? You could discover the next best cultivar with the right push to your cause. Thats why I like to sow seeds every fall. I use a 72 cells tray and sow a seed per cell. You can even mix and match, for example, you can sow three species with 24 seeds each in a 72 cells plateau. You do as many as you like. This technique does not take a lot of spaces if you do it on a reasonable scale. But there is no limit to how much seeds and how much species you sow in fall. As you discard non wanted subject and repot the desired one, you reduce the space needed.

The next spring, you get full of surprise. I like to practice a "discrimination growing technique". At the beggining, you get many seedlings, but not as much as you sowed. Sometimes seeds take two seasons to germinate, so they will only germinate the next spring. You can discriminate the seedlings that have grown by plucking the ones you dont like, and keeping the one's you like, but I suggest you also wait. Some characteristics you can look for at this stage are the size and colors of the leaves. After a month or two, you'll see that some are fast grower, while other are trailing behind. It is the time of choice, you can keep the fast grower, but you must consider other factor's. Does the fastest growing one have long internodes and big leaves ? wich would not make it good bonsai material. Does the slowest one as some dwarf characteristics such as short internodes and small leaves ? You choose wich one you want to keep and wich one you want to discard. The ideal one is a fast growing seedling with unique leaves colors and short internodes. If you discover a good plant you want to grow, you can reproduce it later by cuttings.

Have I mentionned that growing from seeds is cheap? Yes, this is another plus side of growing from seeds. It is also fun to have control on the growing process right from the start. You care for a tree from the beginning to the end, if ever there is one. Special technique can have you shaping the 'nebari', the visible roots of the tree, in the first weeks of the growing process. For such technique, you can have a look at the Bonsai Today issue #71, wich propose a technqiue for growing bonsai from seeds.

As said in the beggining, a saying in the bonsai world is that it take too much time growing a bonsai from seed. But, I must deny once again. What is 7 to 10 years ? It has been demonstrated that 7 to 10 years will yield you a good looking bonsai. Sure, if you plant a few seeds and dont do any other bonsai activities, you will find 7 to 10 years long. But, if you grow bonsai from seeds, while you do your other activities such as air layer, cuttings, styling, your local club session, classes and demonstrations, the 10 years goes fast. What Im saying, is dont discard growing from seeds, you can grow from seeds in parallel to your other activities and obtain that satisfaction of bonsai completion later.

Avid full time hobby bonsai grower. As been practicing bonsai and gardening for more then 8 years. Owner of http://www.mishobonsai.com, a website with ressource for Bonsai seeds and tree seeds.

Bonsai Trees are Both Plants and Works of Art

2006-09-23T04:56:00.000+02:00

Bonsai Trees are Both Plants and Works of Art

Bonsai is the Japanese word for tray gardening, although the origins of bonsai can traced back to China. Bonsai trees and plants are kept in minimal size, by trimming and pruning, for aesthetical purposes. The main idea behind the bonsai trees is to keep their look natural, while never showing that there was human intervention. Despite the fact that bonsai trees are grown in containers, pots or planters, they are by no means less healthy than a tree growing in the wild. The bonsai is kept small, by combining pot confinement, and crown and root pruning. The bonsai care requires dedication, creativeness, love for plants and patience. Bonsai trees can be grown indoors for a decorative appeal in a living room or an office, or they can be left in the garden to give a more exotic look. The most widely used tree for bonsai is the maple. The maple trees are perfect for beginners in the art of bonsai. But still, they are amongst the most incredible-looking bonsai around. The care for a bonsai maple tree is not that difficult, all it needs is the right amount of sun and water.

The main method of limiting the size of a bonsai is pruning, which is the careful removal of parts of the tree in order to shape it and limit its size. Pruning is critical for the development of the bonsai. It is the most important method, as it allows you to control the growth of the bonsai and shape it in the form and appearance that you want. This is the art of the bonsai tree, with the main idea of recreating the nature in a miniature form. The frequency of bonsai pruning, mostly depends on the bonsai's size and age. If large branches have to be removed from the bonsai, it is best to remove them in the peak growing season of the bonsai, which starts from the early spring until mid summer. Concave cutters must be used, when removing those large branches from the bonsai.

Shaping the bonsai is achieved through several precise techniques. In order to maintain the small size of the tree, one needs to a apply a consistent regimen of pruning the leaves and the branches. Wiring the bonsai can also be used as a method of shaping it, as copper or aluminimum wire is wrapped around the branches, holding it in place until the bonsai can maintain this shape without the wires. But this type of shaping is not suitable for all bonsai tree, especially those that are too stiff or too brittle.
About the Author

Jerry Cahill, publisher and webmaster. See his work at Bonsai Tree

How To Get Started In Bonsai Gardening

2006-09-23T04:51:00.000+02:00

How To Get Started In Bonsai Gardening

In my view bonsai gardening is the one hobby you can take up and create something which can only be described as a stunning art form, even if, like me, you were born with as much natural flair for painting and drawing as Andre Agassi has for understated retirement speeches.

There is now doubt that a well kept Bonsai tree is a thing of beauty; a miniature version of a full size tree that replicates the full sized tree but is small enough to fit in a pot on a table.

Genuine living art at its best.

So, how easy is it to grow one of these magnificent, miniature plants? There is no doubt that it takes some skill, patience and a little luck but it is not in fact as difficult as it seems. Let's find out a little more about the fascinating hobby of bonsai gardening.

There is not really a limit on what type of trees can be grown as a bonsai although the most popular varieties these days are pine, juniper and maple. The trees are trained into the required shape by wiring, followed by judicious and careful pruning. The idea is that the wiring and pruning will produce a tree that looks like a tiny version of what you would normally see in a park or garden.

Caring for bonsai trees is something which also requires a little knowledge and experience; some trees are hardy and can survive a winter outside whilst others will need a more protected environment. Other important considerations in bonsai gardening relate to the tools that you need to do the work. It is very important that you have the right equipment. Whilst a basic set of tools is not particularly expensive the correct equipment is essential if you are to make your new hobby a success.

With the right tools and a little training you can quickly learn enough to start shaping your own bonsai trees. The shape of the tree is crucial and there are a number of different recognized styles that you can use for your plant. It is always a source of great enjoyment when over time you see your tree slowly but surely taking on the shape you had envisaged for it. A true reward for your developing bonsai gardening skills.

The presentation of a bonsai tree is absolutely vital and to this end you do need to ensure that your tree is displayed in the most suitable container. There are a huge variety of containers available and you should always be searching for something that will complement and enhance your tree; something that will allow your living art to shine.

The scope of this introduction article is obviously very limited and you will need to look into bonsai gardening more deeply to decide if it is really for you. However, I do hope that I have managed to raise some enthusiasm in the reader for at least taking the next step to finding out a little more about Bonsai gardening.

A couple of plants, the right tools, a carefully chosen container and some loving attention over a period of time can combine to produce an exquisite item that will add a touch of beauty and graceful style to any garden.

Please give bonsai gardening a go. I am sure that you will not regret it.
About the Author

Richard Stone is an enthusiastic bonsai tree grower. To find out more about these wonderful trees and how to grow them take a look at the follow up articles, reviews and tips at http://www.craftyfoxbonsai.com

About indoor tree's

2006-09-21T17:06:00.000+02:00

About indoor tree's

By nature of trees they are meant to be outdoor.

Maple are cold hardy tree, and they will thrive in ideal condition. Who best then mother nature for creating ideal climate. Maple will grow in cold climate because they need a period of cold to rest and rejuvenate. This apply to all tree's, hence bonsai, that grow in cold climate. Growing a tree indoor will lack natural elements. One, it will lack light, wich is essential to growth. It will lack humidity, wich will cause leaves to dry faster. Leaves are in constant transpiration, and humidity help the process. One thing, is that indoor, you most likely keep your temeprature to at least 20c in winter. Colder climate tree that need a period of rest after they loose their leaves, will require a maximum of 5c to go dormant and rejuvenate.

Now, their must be a type of tree that dont need sleep in winter? Yes there is. What you must ask yourself, is what climate conditions can I offer to a future tree?

Well, you can start by having a constant temperature in the house, maybe hotter in the summer. Reducing lighting and maybe humidity by misting my tree once or twice a day.

So with these condition on hand, what type of tree can live with these conditions?

Surely a tropical tree would liked to be in hot temperature all day.

That is why Tropical types of trees do well indoor.

I have a few tropical tree's, and keep them indoor in winter but I always bring them outside in late spring. Their growth rate is 10 times faster outside because it has lots of suns, humidity and hot temperature.

Indoor, the tree survive, but is a really slow grower.

Avid full time hobby bonsai grower. As been practicing bonsai and gardening for more then 8 years. Owner of http://www.mishobonsai.com, a website with ressource for bonsai seeds and tree seeds.

Baby Jade Bonsai

2006-09-21T17:04:00.000+02:00

Baby Jade Bonsai

Interested in growing your own bonsai? The first step is to choose the right type of plant. Baby jade is a succulent bonsai that is also known as the Elephant Plant, Elephant Bush, or Small Leaf Jade. It is native to South Africa and makes an excellent bonsai for the home or office. It has thick pale-green leaves that are almost round. Water is stored in the fleshy branches, trunk, and leaves.

In natural environs the baby jade grows up to 3 or 4 meters in height. It is a newer specimen to be used for bonsai and is a good plant for beginners, because of its ability to survive for long periods of time without any water. It grow very quickly and can be adapted to any style.

When young, its bark is green, but then it can turn from reddish brown to slate gray. It is smooth and shows leaf scars conspicuously. Its fleshy leaves are almost circular and are about 1.5 cm in diameter. They vary in color from pale gray to pale gray-blue-green to dark green. The stems are reddish, and each pair of leaves is at a right angles to the next pair. The small pink to purplish flowers are star-shaped.

Baby jade can be grown outdoors in full sunlight or indoors with good lighting. It is a tropical plant and can withstand a variety of growing conditions, though it needs to be protected when the temperature drops below 50 F.

The soil needs to be almost dry before you water it. The trunk and branches have a tendency to droop from their own weight and are lovely for long cascades.

Drastic cuts can be made when styling this plant. Let the soil dry completely before removing heavy branches or roots. Water the plant sparingly until it recovers. Remove the terminal bud from any branch that you want to keep from growing any longer. You can shape the tree by pinching off buds and branches that are not growing where you want them to. This plant grows fast and needs to be pinched back frequently in the growing season.

When creating a small bonsai (mame), you can use 1 mm aluminum wire to rotate leaves and branches, though wiring is not as effective as it is with hard-wood species.

Spring is the best time to re-pot, though it can be accomplished at any time in the tropics. The soil needs to be fully dry before re-potting is done. The plant then needs to be kept in a shady spot until new growth appears again. Once new growth appears it can be watered again.

William Jones writes for several web sites, on home and recreation topics.

3 Tips On Taking Care Of Bonsai Trees

2006-09-20T16:13:00.000+02:00

3 Tips On Taking Care Of Bonsai Trees

Bonsai trees are a lot of fun, but if you don't know anything on taking care of Bonsai trees, then you're going to have a hard time growing them. So here are a few tips on taking care and growing Bonsai trees.

Tips On Taking Care Of A Bonsai Tree #1: Shaping. This is a big part of getting your dream Bonsai tree to look how you had thought it would. So if you get some metal wire, you will be able to grow your Bonsai tree in the direction you want much quicker than other methods.

Tips On Taking Care Of A Bonsai Tree #2: Wires. Aluminum works best because it is gentle and soft on branches. The wire will need to be thick, since thin wire has a tendency to scratch the tree's bark. When you need to, you can use copper wire. (Since it is stronger than aluminum.)

Tips On Taking Care Of A Bonsai Tree #3: When wiring the Bonsai tree, start with the thicker branches, then work out towards the thinner ones.

There are just a few tips on taking care of Bonsai trees. If you found this helpful, you may be interested to know that I found over 95 pages worth of insider tips on taking care of Bonsai trees...Check this out! Bonsai Training Manual

Bonsai Tree - Black Pine / Pinus Thumbergii Tips And Information

2006-09-20T01:39:00.000+02:00

Bonsai Tree - Black Pine / Pinus Thumbergii Tips And Information

Hello all bonsai devotees. How are you? My name is Suhendra. I want to tell you my experience on how to keep, treat and create black pine bonsai. Perhaps this experience is only suitable for tropical area and I hope those who plant black pine will also have different experience to share. I have tried to plant black pine since 5 years ago (around 1980) when I got the seed from a friend traveling abroad.

I have known and fallen in love with black pine bonsai, since I had learn about bonsai for two years from a foreign book on how to treat and create bonsai by practicing directly, so that I gradually master it. When I learned that book, I saw a picture of black pine and Cemara (Juniperes) bonsai that were so beautiful and robust. Even more so the black pine with its cracked bark so that it looked old, antique and elegant. According to Taiwanese bonsai grower, black pine could live in both winter and summer. In those seasons, its leaves are still green and thriving, so that we can call it evergreen tree. From books I have read, I'm sure that this tree could grow in tropical area. From that time, I had been determined to get that kind of tree and tried to plant and grow it in Indonesia.

In the mids of 1980 I and my elder went to Taiwan to attend an international exhibition of bonsai. While looking for special new trees to enrich the variety of bonsai in Indonesia, from Taiwan I brought home some kinds of bonsai that I'd been always seen on some foreign bonsai books that we couldn't find in Indonesian market (before 1985). They are: Hokkian Tea (Carmona mycrophylla), Pyracanta (Pyracanta Grenulata), Ulmus (Ulmus Parfiflora), Karet Kimeng (Ficus Microcarpa). After buying those bonsai, one thing I shouldn't forget to be my prime target of searching is Black Pine. Setting aside my pocket money for returning home, I spent the rest to buy various kinds of pine, starting from seeds, young trees, half-grown bonsai, and grown-bonsai.

Some Taiwanese bonsai grower told me that Black Pine (Pinus Thumbergii) grows best compared with any other kinds of pine they plant. There are three kinds of Black Pine:

1. Those with long leaves (which is generally spread out in the market). 2. Those with short leaves (Seu Sung). 3. Those with mini leaves (Zuen Sau Hei Sung).

The three Black Pines are the most preferred by Taiwanese bonsai grower to be dwarfed. Beside that, I have learned some techniques on how to plant and treat black pine that I want to share with you.

PROCESS BEFORE PLANTING

Coming home, I had all my trees washed because it's forbidden to bring the soil from Taiwan. This is the regulation among countries to prevent the spread of plant pest. Then I opened the plastic cover of mos (soil substitute covering the root so it stays moisturized along the trip) one by one. After that all the roots that had been cleaned from mos was soaked with plant vitamin or organic fertilizer liquid for about one hour. Last thing to do was to keep the plant out of soaking liquid and planted it on the pot.

MEDIUM FOR PINE (Suitable for Casuarina=Juniperus too)

3 bg sand of 1-2 mm (do not use powder sand) + 1 bg loose soil (Do not use sticky soil such as clay, etc.) + 1 bg humus (or compost to substitute humus).

After being mixed well, it can be used to plant (you can see how to plant in a pot on article of Loa Variegata). I've got a little story about sands. In around 1990 in Indonesia there has been found a kind of pit sand (pasir gunung) from perimeter of Malang, so that it is called pasir Malang (Malang pit sand). This kind of sand was found by hobbyist and raw-material (bakalan) bonsai hunter in the nature. The specialty of this sand is clean and has no powder or waste. We may say that it's been free from pests and germs that are usually found on soil or pit sand. So there's no need to have it washed it anymore and it has pores to keep water and air. There are several kinds of plant that are better being planted on this sand rather than any other media, i.e. Santigi (Phempis Acidula), Cemara Udang (Casuarina Equisetifolia), Black Pine, Cemara, etc. Naturally Malang pit sand is beneficial for bonsai hobbyists and some devotees of ornamental plants such as cactus, adenium, sansivera, etc. Then I use this pit sand as composite for media to plant Black Pine and other bonsai.

PROCESS AFTER BEING PLANTED

After black pine is being planted in a pot, the trunk always has to be tied tightly into the pot so that the tree is more stable. It's because any repotting tree is in critical period. Its root hasn't been converged with its new media so that it hasn't been normally functioned. Moreover when we cut some of the roots and new roots grow, the latter is still easily snapped off if it is shaken, and the tree will be possibly died. After being tied, put it in the shade then water it perfectly (until the water comes out of the pot bottom hole). Let it be there for about two, but please not to let it be too wet or too dry. We'd better to keep it a little bit dry than to keep it too much wet, in order to prevent its root from getting rotten. This will be different from what we should do to growing black pine (see the description below on watering). After two weeks the trees will look healthy and strong with its green leaves. Now it's time for the tree to have sun bath gradually. Then wait until new bud comes up, which is a sign that its new root has grown and the tree is ready to have a full sun bath.

There are some bonsai hobbyist who don't know the media and the planting process, or don't have much patience in planting and treating black pine (which is different from maintaining ficus or any other kind of bonsai). Doing treatment improperly will lead to the death of black pine. When this happens, they will easily say that black pine could not be planted in Indonesia or will be dead if it's being re-potted. The worst is when there are bonsai hobbyists and sellers who has just seen black pine picture on bonsai books tell the same things. This makes bonsai newbies or collectors being defrauded and don't want to treat black pine.

TREATING GROWN BLACK PINE BONSAI

The pruning (cutting the leaves), can be done when we see the old leaves has been grown yellow or looked a little bit dull. We can do it in two ways: shearing or pulling out. The best way is the second one, that is gradually pull out the old leaves. To prevent pulling out the whole group of leaves, use your left hand to hold the lower end of the leaves group, and use your right hand to pull out the old leaves one by one, and leave the young ones. If you prefer the first way, shear the old leaves at about 1 cm higher from the leaf stalk. This is to provoke the new bud from the rest of those old leaves. Unfortunately, shearing will leave brown traces, and these unsightly traces will stay there for months before they disappeared.

To keep the twigs and the leaves short and dense (to avoid disfigured or to keep the good shape), do the following:

1. Gradually pull out the old leaves every year.

2. Cut the twigs, small twigs, and new buds once every two or three years. This is to keep the shape from being undesirable. Two or three new buds usually come up once a year naturally. Cut off the very thriving (big) bud and the very weak (small) bud by shearing from the lowest part. Leave the moderate growing buds until they release their new leaves. Then cut it at the length we intend to. Two weeks later, there will come up the second bud from the trace of cutting. If it is needed, do the same to the second bud, so that we will get the third bud. The second and the third buds will create the short twigs and leaves. This theory is he same with bonsai tree that will have big leaves in the country but after making it bonsai planted on the pot by cutting its leaves several times, the leaves become small such as Sancang (Phemna Microphylla), Beringin Karet (Ficus Ratusa), etc.

3. When the leaves of the new bud have grown, do not cut off too many twigs when the leaves of the new buds has blossomed because in this phase, the trace of cutting will release much turpentine (sap) that will possibly kill the tree. The best time to shape and shear the twigs is when we start to see its old leaves (looks yellow and dull). This shows that this tree is stop growing temporarily and is saving energy before releasing its new buds. It's the safest time to prune black pine by pulling out or shearing, and cutting the twigs too, because it's the strongest period of the tree.

THE WAY OF REPOTTING / CHANGING THE SOIL OF BLACK PINE BONSAI

The process of repotting bonsai to be black pine can be done once in three or four years, because black pine's root grows slowly. Do not repot before two years because its roots haven't been old enough. If we repot after 4 years, the roots will be too dense in the pot, and this will retard its growth and fertilization.

Please repot this way. After pulling bonsai out of the pot, we may see the lump of root that has been converged with the soil. Throw 1/3 part around the lump by scraping the soil and shearing the roots that is too long. Then put it again into the pot with the medium described above, by scraping, so the tips of the old roots can directly penetrate into and converged with new medium. This will guarantee its life after repotting. Don't even repot by cutting or sowing the lump of soil and root flat as if we're slicing the cake and then plant it again. This way make the old root lump covered by the new medium, causing an undistributed heat in the lump and will finally make the root rotten.

According to my experience in planting black pine, we shouldn't do pruning while repotting. Once my gardener didn't follow my instructions. When I went out of town and didn't supervise him, he was repotting and pruning at the same time. This caused some half-grown black pine trees died.

In Indonesia which has two seasons, the best time to repot black pine is between the end of dry season and the beginning of rainy season (around the beginning of September), but pay attention to black pine condition too. Repotting should be conducted when new bud has just come up before the leaves blossom. When the leaves have blossom, then the tree will be weak and the risk of repotting will be bigger.

Well, that's my experience on treating black pine bonsai. Hope it'll be useful for those who want to treat or collect black pine bonsai.
About the Author

Suhendra is the owner of Bonsai Star Gallery (http://www.bonsaistar.com) and former chief of Bandung-Indonesia Bonsai Society (2003-2004). In his site you will get information on bonsai Tree, bonsai plant, bonsai for sale and everything about bonsai.

Bonsai Tree - Ficus Glomerata Variegata Information

2006-09-20T01:35:00.000+02:00

Bonsai Tree - Ficus Glomerata Variegata Information

Hello Bonsai devotees, my name is Suhendra. I want to share my knowledge about Ficus Glomerata Variegata (Loa Varigata in Indonesian Language). I bought the bonsai in northern Bandung in 2004. I drove my own car accompanied by employees. When arrived, I see numerous small and raw bonsai. Some were good, but some were only raw bonsai. Then the owner invited us to see his farm, which had raw bonsai planted in soil and polybags. Some of them were planted from seeds, graftings, and natures.

In his farm I saw a Kaliandar Variegata whose flowers were red, like timber tree flowers and I wanted to buy it. Unfortunately, the owner didn't sell because he said it will die if dug in dry season. I was quite confused, since the tree was 2 meter height and had so many saplings. Why didn't he separate them and planted in pots or polybags to be sold. I think the tree was good, because it had yellow striped leaves that very contrast plus red flowers. I thought it will attract so many people to buy.

When we were talking, he mentioned about Ficus Glomerata Variegata whose fertile was not good. I was interested to know more because I was interested in collecting rare plants especially that could be created as bonsai. When I saw the plant, it was only planted in polybag using unhulled paddy (paddy plants /rice that are hulled and then separated from the stalks) as media. It was put in the middle of higher trees, so there was possibility watering process could not be completed. Sunshine was also not than one hour, and there were so many branches were not cut in the lower position that made the variegata lost. I think that were the factors.

After I bought and took it home, I did the repotting: 1 part soil + 2 part fertilizer + 1 part Malang sand (any sand taken from volcanoes). Before the substances mixed in pot, the bottom should be covered by filter to shut the hole. On the filter put rough sand (2-3 mm), then softer sand (1 mm), and goat manure (mixed with unhulled paddy) with comparison 1:1. Cut all the branches, leaves including the green and variegata from the stalk. After that, pull the tree from its polybag, clean the soil, and cut and the oversized roots. Finally, put the tree in the pot, do watering, and keep in shaded place. Put in a place with 2 hour morning sunshine when the tree grows new buds. After having many variegata leaves, full dry in the sun. When the tree grow green leaves, cut immediately.

The result after 6 months, the tree became so fertile and good. So I started to shape it with Slanting Style. After 2 years with good nursery, it became 80% qualified bonsai. I kept doing the intensive care for the purpose of joining National Bonsai Competition.

One day there was a bonsai lover outside Bandung city came to my place to see bonsai. When he saw the Ficus Glomerata Variegata, he was so impressed and eager to buy it. I understood his feeling, because I had ever the same experiences when I wanted to buy good and rare bonsai tree. After he did some very good offer, I sold the tree. Why? Because I had the saplings from prior graftings, so I still could have the same trees. I felt happy because there was a person who appreciated my work from the same hobby.

And that's the whole story and experience about how to do repotting and plant bonsai with the substances made especially for the Ficus Glomerata Variegata. I hope my information could give positive input for you, the world bonsai devotees. Thank you.

Suhendra is the owner of Bonsai Star Gallery (http://www.bonsaistar.com) and former chief of Bandung-Indonesia Bonsai Society (2003-2004). In his site you will get information on bonsai Tree, bonsai plant, bonsai for sale and everything about bonsai.

What Part Does Pruning Play In Bonsai?

2006-09-17T15:31:00.000+02:00

What Part Does Pruning Play In Bonsai?

Branch Pruning
Pruning of branches is performed in spring. Much, but not all of the new growth is removed. Branches are selected early on as the only branches to be allowed to prosper, while the excess branches are mercilessly pruned off.

Leaf Pruning
Leaf pruning (also known as defoliation) in bonsai is used for several deciduous and tropical plants to reduce leaf size, remove unsightly leaves and speed-up growth by causing two seasons' growth in one. This is done in mid-summer, by cutting 60-90% of the leaves off the tree, only leaving a few to ensure that the tree keeps its energy. Remove leaves with fine scissors, cutting them from directly behind the leaf. In the next few weeks make sure that you keep the plant in a hospitable position and climate and supply it adequate water. Remember however, that this form of pruning is only applicable to certain types of plants.

Root Pruning
Bonsai trees are intentionally allowed to become root-bound in their containers, and the roots too, are pruned. But root-bound plants won't thrive forever in that condition and, indeed, bonsai trees must be re-potted every two or three years to furnish the roots with fresh soil.

Last but not the least, the main factor in maintaining bonsai is the removal of all but the most important parts of the plant. Bonsai is all about the reduction of everything just to the essential elements and ultimate refinement.

About the Author:Rob Mellor owns a great website helping people find out more about the bonsai trees. Please visit it at: http://www.lost-bonsai-secrets.com

What Bonsai Supplies Will I Need?

2006-09-16T15:05:00.000+02:00

What Bonsai Supplies Will I Need?

Bonsai is becoming increasingly popular around the world and no matter where you live there is a good chance that you aren’t too far away from a Bonsai shop. Many garden centres and nurseries now also stock the tools you need and if you’re still struggling or if you like to shop from the comfort of your own home the Internet is literally awash with suppliers of everything you could need from compost to rakes with everything in between.

My best word of advice here is to find out exactly what you want and then shop around. Visit your local stores and have a look on the Internet. Always try to build up a relationship with whomever you are buying from in case you ever need that vital piece of advice that can mean the difference between a small, brown conifer and a beautiful Bonsai masterpiece.

As well as the essential tools and specific Bonsai equipment and compost you can buy decorative figurines, ornate pots and just about any other addition you could possibly imagine. The Internet provides you with the world’s largest marketplace for any items you may want so you aren’t at all restricted to the items you can buy at your local plant store so whether your needs are for manufactured, good quality and affordable equipment to hand thrown pots you will have no problem finding what you are looking for.

About the Author:Bonsia HQ, http://bonsaihq.com/ for lots of information about looking after your bonsai.

Bonsai Soil And Additives

2006-09-16T15:03:00.000+02:00

Bonsai Soil And Additives

Bonsai soil shouldn’t be costing you very much more than normal potting compost or bags of nutrient rich soil that you use in your garden. A good Bonsai soil, however, may contain a long list of ingredients including clay, soil and even bark. Some of these ingredients are loaded with the nutrients that your Bonsai will thrive on, and paying that little extra can certainly promote good healthy growth from your beloved project.

Whether you decide you want to use bags of Bonsai soil or make your own soil there are certain things you need to make sure of before planting your Bonsai in the soil. A good Bonsai soil needs to have excellent drainage to make sure the water can seep to the roots and out of the bottom of the soil and through the holes in your pot. It is a good idea to have two different soils, one coarser than the other. This way, the screened soil acts as a sort of irrigation for your plants.

As well as this, you may want to consider buying nutrient supplements that you can add when repotting or mix with the soil that you use. However, if you are growing your Bonsai in a suitable area this isn’t always needed.

About the Author:http://bonsaihq.com/, for lots of information about looking after your bonsai.

A Beginner’s Guide To Caring For A Bonsai Tree

2006-09-15T02:51:00.000+02:00

A Beginner’s Guide To Caring For A Bonsai Tree

The key to proper placement of your bonsai is to try and recreate or mimic the natural environment of how your specie grows in nature. Does a natural fig tree require only partial sunlight with plenty of shade? If so, your bonsai fig is going to need to be positioned in a similar style of environment. Don’t worry. There are plenty of resources on each species of bonsai tree that will give you advice on positioning your bonsai.

Next to proper placement, the most important part of caring for your bonsai tree is regularly watering your bonsai. This cannot be stressed enough. Water is the lifeline of a plant. Without proper watering, your bonsai will die. Some species of bonsai may require more water than others. Find out how much water your particular bonsai tree will need.

Outside of placement and watering, the last main source of care for your bonsai tree deals with maintenance. Bonsai tree maintenance consists of styling, pruning, and shaping your tree. Maintenance is the hardest and most rewarding part of caring for a bonsai. With every snip of your shears, you are shaping the way that you bonsai tree is going to grow and be displayed when it reaches maturity. Bonsai maintenance is an ongoing task for the life of your bonsai.

Proper placement, watering, and maintenance of your bonsai tree are the three most critical areas of caring for your bonsai. However, watching your bonsai tree grow and blossom into a stunning fully matured bonsai is well worth every minute spent in carrying out these tasks.

About the Author:Vincent DeLuca is author of Healing Health from Home and owner of Heavenly Orchards, an “herbal eatery and spice for life” store. Vincent is also an avid gardener and horticulturist. To learn more about caring for bonsai trees or to inquire about purchasing a bonsai, go to http://www.bonsai-trees-for-sale.info

What Is A Bonsai Tree?

2006-09-15T02:35:00.000+02:00

What Is A Bonsai Tree?

Let us first understand what a Bonsai tree is. A Bonsai tree is a way of bringing natural trees and plants into your home or drawing rooms which otherwise would not have been possible due to their large size, and other requirements. Bonsai provides an outlet both for art and horticulture.

There are many myths which are associated with bonsai. This not only confuses budding enthusiasts, but also gives the pastime a bad name. A bonsai is not a genetically dwarfed plant and is not kept small by cruelty in any way. The techniques of Bonsai are no crueler than that of any other horticultural endeavor. In fact, given an adequate supply of water, air, light and nutrients, a properly maintained bonsai should outlive a full size tree of the same species. It is a common belief that bonsai are only a few centimeters tall. This is not entirely true, although bonsai are small in comparison to their huge life-sized brothers; most are over 20 centimeters tall and up to 1 to 1.2 meter in height.

How to develop a Bonsai There are different ways to develop a Bonsai. Bonsai can be developed from seeds or cuttings, from young trees or from naturally occurring stunted trees transplanted into containers. Most bonsai range in height from 5 centimeters to 1 meter. Bonsai are kept small and trained by pruning branches and roots, by periodic repotting, by pinching off new growth, and by wiring the branches and trunk so that they grow into the desired shape.

Bonsai are ordinary trees or plants, not special hybrid dwarfs. Small leafed varieties are most suitable, but essentially any plant can be used, regardless of the size it grows to in the wild. The bonsai may suggest many things, but in all cases must look natural and never show the intervention of human hands, with the exception of Chinese bonsai which in many cases depicts images of dragons and other influential symbols of the culture at the time of origination. Grown in special containers, bonsai are primarily kept outdoors (with the exception of some plants suited, trained and grown indoors), although they are often displayed on special occasions indoors.

The bonsai with its container and soil is physically independent of the earth since its roots are not planted in it, is a separate entity, complete in itself, yet part of nature. A bonsai tree should always be positioned off-center in its container, for not only is asymmetry vital to the visual effect, but the center point is symbolically where heaven and earth meet, and nothing should occupy this place.

Prized possession Given proper care, bonsai can live for hundreds of years, with prized specimens being passed from generation to generation, admired for their age, and revered as a reminder of those who have cared for them over the centuries. Although these bonsai are extremely beautiful - meticulously cared for over the years and containing such a wealth of knowledge, age is not essential. It is more important that the tree produce the artistic effect desired, that it be in proper proportion to the appropriate container, and that it be in good health.

Overall, bonsai are something that are quite personalized and there are no strict rules to abide by if you undertake it merely as a hobby which to gain enjoyment out of. It does not have to be an expensive commitment, but it is a commitment that requires a great amount of time, patience, skill and endurance. Although things may not go to plan, don't give up.

Rob Mellor owns www.lost-bonsai-secrets.com This website helps people find out more about the bonsai tree. Please visit the site for more information on how to grow bonsai tree